ROME- We met by Trajan’s column, bathed in the golden light of the mellow September sun, for our afternoon wander through the ancient history of the Eternal City. The group was a good size, about 15, which meant that you could hear what was going on and felt part of it, but not so small that you couldn’t pause to take a photo or lag slightly behind to catch a glimpse of Caesar’s memorial for example.

 VATICAN CITY — Gazing up at Michelangelo’s magnificent altar in the Sistine Chapel with nothing to distract me save the soft sound of our guide’s footsteps pacing behind me, I couldn’t help but count my lucky stars. Usually, it’s a different story. Mile-long queues, fed-up tourists, guides trying to scam you, and that’s before you even get in. Followed by airport-style security checks, guards shuffling you along, and the constant feeling of being watched.