Discovering family roots at the hotel Quinta da Casa Branca

A trend of younger travelers is shifting Madeira's reputation as a destination for retirees

 MADEIRA - Since my childhood I heard about my great grandfather Edmund Leacock, having a big home in Madeira and making wine. So when a friend suggested to me that we visit Madeira I was excited. Not only would I get to discover and enjoy a beautiful place but I could also dig a little to try to find out more about my ancestors.

 My father tells me his grandfather’s house was called Quinta da Casa Branca but he isn’t sure if it is still in the family.

 I am very surprised when I google the house and find out it is now a beautiful five star hotel that’s part of the small world hotel group. I email the Quinta da Casa Branca hotel and asked them if the current owner is related somehow to Edmond Leacock, my great grandfather and if I can visit. I receive a reply that the hotel was still held by family members and that I indeed myself and my daughter can stay!

 On arrival I am stunned by the entrance to the hotel, a modern open glass reception surrounded by lush, tropical gardens. Underneath the reception are guest rooms with the same open design and glass doors. Another large modern building, that is actually the spa and a restaurant are set further back tastefully down the driveway wedged between banana trees and a plush green lawn. The large white house where my great grandfather lived is set further back among the trees, deeper among the banana trees and birds of Paradise.

 Afonso, the CEO of the hotel meets me in the main reception. On the tour of the grounds he explains to me that he grew up on the estate as he is the step son of my great-grandfather’s son, William. Afonso explains that it was him who had the initiative to have the modern parts of the hotel designed in 1998.

 Afonso explains that William, his step father, was living in the main stately home until 2017 when he passed away after which it was converted into the luxury hotel suites that exist today. I am disappointed that I hadn’t come earlier to the island to meet my great-grandfather’s son, William.

 Afonso walks us to the main house, where a large portrait of Edmund Leacock, looking dignified and handsome in a kilt, is hanging above the entrance of the stately home. We are shown where the original living room was which is now a dining area for guests. Set several steps away through the bush a is a private hotel pool, the adults only pool where several guests are enjoying the sun from their loungers.

 Afonso explains that the pool at the main house is “child free” because many guests come to have a peaceful time and to relax in the unique and beautiful gardens.

 We are staying in the pool Villa, near the other hotel pool, where my daughter enjoyed a swim that morning.

 Afonso notes that while Madeira used to be known more as a place where retirees or older travellers might come, in the last decade a lot of younger visitors come to enjoy the Island for its hiking and nature. “Madeira has reinvented itself to appeal to many types of generations now, not just cruise line or retired visitors,” he points out.

 We wander a bit more around the gardens and see many species of plants named with plaques. “We have six full time gardeners just to maintain the beauty of the grounds. We are proud of the diversity of our plant life. Madeira has over three hundred types of trees on the island and many of them within the walls of the Quin- ta,” he adds.

 I ask Afonso what happened to the family wine business and if they still produce the famous Leacock Madeira port wine, that I had received in my hotel room that morning. Afonso explains that they no longer have a big business in wine, but Brandy’s, the most famous port house in the centre of Funchal still produces a Leacock brand of Madeira Port Wine.

 When we complete our tour I stroll with my daughter from the Quinta to downtown funchal where I am able to walk in and take a tour of the famous Brandy’s port house. It’s extremely easy as there are several tours in English per day and it’s only 8 Euro per person. Once a hospital, then a jail, before becoming a world producer of port, the venue is steeped in history and charm (and most importantly port). After the tour I take a sampler of four local port wines and strike up a conversation with the bar maid who knows nothing much about my great grandfather Edmund Leacock but insists the Leacocks are still part of the wine society on the island.

 A little bit tipsy, we head to the Ritz for lunch, which is just around the corner from Brandy’s. The town centre has more lush public gardens and a really charming central park looking over the port.

 The next day we catch an Uber for 5 Euro to the harbour to take a boat cruise. We have the weather on our side, it’s a smooth journey and we are even accompanied by a number of dolphins. It’s a great way to spend four hours, the trip is 35 Eur per person and drinks on board are very reasonably priced. Many boats leave the Funchal Marina but I really enjoyed the Seaborn Catamaran cruise we took. We even got to swim in the warm water, albeit briefly.

 The Quinta and downtown Funchal are easy places to spend time relaxing, but it was also good to do some day trips to see other parts of the island. One of the most famous sites, the Monte Palace did not disappoint. We took the number 2 bus up the winding roads to the top of the mountain and spent the day enjoying the other worldly Palace and gardens before taking the funicular back down to the centre of the town.

Another day we went to the Ponta Gorda Lido where my daughter enjoyed the water park and pools by the cliff side all day .

 Our last day we took a “best of the west” tour for 38 Euro each to enjoy the stunning views from Cabo Girao Sky Walk and to see the Porto do Moniz rock pools. Lunch at the rock pools was fabulous. It’s certainly a place I can’t wait to return especially if the Quinta da Casa Branca will have us again!

 

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