La Dolce Vita in a Pugliese Masseria

 MARTINA FRANCA - So much beauty fills Italy’s 300,000 square miles and certainly one of the most rustic and juiciest places to experience lies in southern Puglia. Splashed with groves of olive trees, rich brown and red soils, and miles and miles of pristine seashores along the crystal blue Adriatic Sea on the east, and the Gulf of Taranto and Ionian Sea on the western inner cove, this captivating region is also famed for its incomparable Mediterranean dishes: orecchiette (ear-shaped pasta); baccalà alla salentina (salted cod with breadcrumbs), pecorino cheese and fresh tomato; sott’olio preserved vegetable produce, such as eggplant, artichokes, onions and peppers in extra virgin olive oil and vinegar; frisella baked dry bread; and of course, the irresistible crunchy bites of taralli.

 What more delightful way is there to savour these mouth-watering joys than under the golden Italian sun for a week’s sojourn in one of Puglia’s most enchanting cities, Martina Franca. Located in the province of Taranto in the heart of Puglia, Martina Franca boasts a long, bountiful history since 10th century AD, clearly retaining shadows of Baroque architecture and the provincial trulli culture throughout its winding cobbled alleys and whitewashed historic centre.

 Approximately three kilometres from the town centre is an expanse of farmland, now catering to visitors who wish to experience the country flavour in Pugliese style. The Masseria Agriturismo Pace is “home away from home” and easily settles you in that dreamlike Italian villa life. The cottages are designed in charming and artistically decorated white trullis, surrounded by lush greens, rich forest trees and a ranch of horses, cows and other farm animals. One wakes up to the cry of the roosters, chirp of the birds or the waves lapping in the southern breeze. Owner Camillo Pace, also a thriving contrabass player and singer known to many music enthusiasts, hosts guests to homemade Puglia dishes, local wine and fresh cheese, bread and herbs.

 Camillo told me ‘the estate, comprising of about 45 hectares, began life as a farm and continues its production of milk and meat to this day. It was built at the end of the 18th century, taking the name of “Masseria Guarini,” my last name. During that time the farm sustained the needs of our family and established a bakery (which is now converted into a suite). This served the production of taralli and bread. Vineyards and olive groves began to grow for wine and oil production, and small terrace gardens provided us with all kinds of vegetables. At the end of 1800, a church was also erected for religious worship, which was named "Madonna del Rosario." After the death of my grandmother, the company was designated to my brother Martino and me. We decided together to put up an agriturismo to share with tourists the ancient stories of our ancestors, and above all to entertain them, through typical local cuisine and interior constructions, the salient moments of life in a masseria.’

 ‘Inside the farm you can find many animals: cows, horses, pigs, sheep, hens, and others. You can milk the cows and venture to take part in centuries-old way of farming. Nearby the estate there are a lot of available leisure attractions, such as horse riding, cycling, and guided tours around the vicinity, like the ancient sassi stone town of Matera, the trullis of Alberobello, the kasbah-like knot streets of Cisternino, the breath-taking waters of Polignano a Mare, and the gorgeous Rococo town of Lecce, with the possibility of taking a sea shuttle, which is about 30 km from the farm. You can also walk through the woods of the farmland and learn about the various plant species that grow in our parks, while delighting over our typical cheeses and the world famous primitive wine that has witnessed its birth right in our territory. You can discover its history by visiting the Museum of Primitive Wine Civilization in Manduria, Taranto.’

 ‘On the cultural side, the estate has been home to so many artists, such as poets, painters, musicians, writers, dancers, and more, that make this place so charming from both a naturalistic and fairy tale point-of-view. In fact, for some years now, Agriturismo Pace has also become an “artistic residence,” which hosts shows of all kinds, making guests participate in fun activities and giving them the opportunity to explore different arts, and consequently, allowing them to absorb the basic cultural foundation of our region.’

 ‘We welcome all visitors to Italy to experience this unique journey into the very heart of the Italian soul. We invite everyone to take a glimpse into our family history as we reveal stories and secrets of the past. Also, guests can learn how to play an open-air music instrument for relaxation, or engage in shows and games in the woods, while learning about the production and transformation of our primary products’

Further details:

Masseria Agriturismo Pace

Owner: Camillo Pace Via Villa Castelli 137 74015 Martina Franca

Tel. 3332196126/3391999587

3332196126/3391999587 africapace@libero.it

Facebook: Masseria Agriturismo Pace

Low season: 1 March to 30 May

60 euros per room/80 euros suite (all inclusive of breakfast)

High season: 1 June to 15 September/20 December to 6 January

Accommodation price: 90 euros per room/110 euros suite (all inclusive of breakfast)

Dinner or Lunch: 25 euros per person (antipasto, first, second, sweets and fruit, wine, water, house alcoholic beverages