In the Footsteps of St. Francis and Ibsen on the dazzling Amalfi Coast

AMALFI-From Saint Francis to Scandinavian playwright Henrik Ibsen, the tourist-famed Amalfi Coast for centuries has attracted a constellation of spiritual and artistic pilgrims inspired by its stunning, cliff-dropping views of the Mediterranean.

 This UNESCO World Heritage Site is a perfect example of historic human adaptation blending with a dramatic and challenging environment. It is ideal for a weekend getaway at just over a three-hour drive from Rome.

 This was our fourth time in Amalfi and our fourth stay at Hotel Luna Convento. The experience is like stepping onto a Wes Anderson film set. Everything is perfect, and the setting feels like it is from a hundred years ago when hotel luxury was at its peak.

 During the breakfast, aperitivo, and dinner services, the waiters wear white jackets and provide top-notch service. Every evening around six p.m., the former Franciscan cloister transforms into a beautiful outdoor area to discuss the activities of the day under lemon trees.

 Hotel Luna Convento is perfectly placed on a sharp peninsula looking back at Amalfi on one side and Atrani on the other. Ravello is just above the hotel, under a 20-minute drive, which makes it the ideal spot for a night out.

 The hotel’s pool is cut into the rock beneath the property and features two access ladders to the sea. Most days, swimming in the clear Mediterranean water is even more refreshing than the pool. The lifeguard will always save your preferred chair as you get to know him better each day.

 The history of the property began in 1220, when Saint Francis of Assisi visited Amalfi to view the relics of Saint Andrew arriving from Constantinople. During his visit, he founded the Franciscan convent on the rock outcrop between the inlets of Amalfi and Atrani.

 The convent flourished on the site for over 600 years until the 19th-century “Terracina Agreement,” which removed certain rights for religious properties south of Terracina. The convent was then acquired by the Barbaro family in 1840. Soon after, it became the first hotel on the Amalfi Coast.

 The first visitors were from Northern Europe, escaping the harsh winters. Summer holidays in Amalfi were nonexistent at the time and only became popular after the Second World War. The journey was difficult until the road was constructed in 1857. A popular activity for guests was to take a mule up to Ravello and the neighboring town of Scala.

 Famous 19th-century guests included the German composer, Richard Wagner, and the playwright, Henrik Ibsen. Ibsen stayed in Room 15 for three months and reportedly wrote A Doll’s House there.

 “They built into places, improving the beauty,” said Giocondo Cavaliere, Director of Sales and Marketing for the last 20 years. Cavaliere was describing the way the architecture fits so beautifully into the coastline.

 “This hotel has a style that remains authentic and keeps the old style of Amalfi, the history, and the spirit.” As we walked out onto the veranda to speak about the history, he witnessed my reaction to a breathtaking sunset over Amalfi.

 Then, walking inside, Giocondo explained that “this cloister is one out of three in Amalfi and the only one to display double columns with the Amalfi arch.” Amalfi is the home of the oldest maritime republic in Italy starting in 839 AD. They dominated the Mediterranean in the ninth and 11th centuries.

 In 2000, Giocondo was responsible for adding air conditioning to every room. This was a foreign idea at the time, but eventually the owners agreed to add it while respecting the architecture during the installation.

 Looking toward the future, the hotel is focusing more on its two restaurants and the expansion of its 13th-century terraced garden. Located inside the hotel, La Veranda has a panoramic view of the Gulf of Amalfi. Just across the street, Torre Saracena Restaurant offers another stunning panoramic view from the top of an 11th-century defensive tower.

 I had a chance to dine at La Veranda, and the highlights included the fresh pumpkin soup with extra virgin olive oil and the grilled sea bass with endives. The vegetables were from the garden, and the fish was fresh from the local market that morning.

 Every morning, the farmers bring fresh vegetables, fruit and spices from the garden to the restaurants. The hotel would like to increase the yields in this favorable climate, especially with the lemon trees.

 They also renovated a private home behind the hotel, which is now a 12-room private residence available for guests. L’Eremo di San Francesco, a 13th-century villa that sits above the hotel with commanding views of the coast, is a great location for weddings or private parties.

 The hotel is even considering staying open all year long, as off-season winter visits are starting to become fashionable again. As we sat in the old Franciscan Refectory, Giocando pointed out that the fireplace is still functional.

 On our way out, Antonio, the manager, said, “There is one more thing we would like to show you.” He grabbed a large key and led us to a restored 16th-century church. It was beautiful, with the morning light coming through the stained glass from the Amalfi Sea.

 As we returned, our car was waiting, and off we drove along the winding cliff roads back to Rome.

 Hotel Luna Convento is part of the group Space Hotels. Founded in 1974, the group was born from the vision and determination of a group of independent hoteliers who chose to form a network without sacrificing their individual identities. Currently a curated collection of 43 hotels across 28 of Italy’s most captivating destinations. Space Hotels is built on direct, personal relationships with hoteliers.

 Space Hotels gives a voice to these hoteliers, supporting them in their strategic decisions and business development. As a non-profit organization, Space Hotels consistently reinvests its earnings back into the group, transforming them into services, opportunities, and tangible value for its members.

Hotel Luna Convento

Via P. Comite, 33
84011 Amalfi (SA) · Campania, Italia