Sauna rituals, luxury, and gastronomy in the Dolomites
MADONNA DI CAMPIGLIO- The ‘sauna master,’ Maria took me by surprise when she began my week-end in the Dolomites by fanning my face with hot steam in a scorching sauna with rousing ritual music playing in the background as perspiration poured off me.
When you enter the five-star Cerana Relax Hotel, you are immediately surrounded by the larch pinewood interior of the spacious lobby. The faint scent of pine reminds you that you have arrived in the mountains.
They offer a rooftop spa overlooking the small mountain town of Madonna di Campiglio, an hour and 20-minute drive from Trento. The facility includes three saunas: Finnish, Bio, and Turkish. There is also an outdoor heated pool, a lounge area and a dedicated snack and beverage room.
As I checked in, Sofia at the front desk suggested that I take a photo of the schedule of classes offered in the spa. A quick glance revealed sessions for yoga, Tibetan bells, smoke rituals in the Bio sauna and many more.
She suggested Aufguss energy, which she explained was a guided sauna ritual where a sauna master places scented ice onto hot stones and fans the aromatic steam through the room. The sauna master uses rapid, powerful towel-waving techniques to drive waves of hot, humid air directly toward participants, creating an intense rush of heat and invigoration.
She lost me at “sauna ritual,” but after 30 minutes of unwinding in the outdoor pool, Maria, the sauna master, invited me to join. The next 11 minutes (the total Aufguss ritual time) were the most intense sauna time in my life. It felt like it combined a workout with deep relaxation. I left feeling extremely exhausted and deeply refreshed at the same time.
The next day after a long hike I found myself waiting for a seat outside the sauna before the next Aufguss session. “For me, I like to see people enjoy it,” said Maria, who has worked in the spa for three years. She was certified by the Italian Sauna and Aufguss Association (AISA).
Daniele and Margherita are the second generation to run the hotel following Daniele’s parents. “We do not simply want to be a five-star hotel - we want to be a place where guests experience genuine, personal, and attentive hospitality,” said Margherita. “For us, luxury is not merely about what meets the eye; it is defined by attentiveness, time dedicated to the guest, attention to detail, and the ability to make everyone feel welcome.”
The modern facility with its deep roots in the region certainly made me feel at home and was the perfect base for exploring the area.
The 45-room lodge has 14 suites, two spas, a gym and ski-in/ski-out access. Breakfast was an incredible spread with every option imaginable, including freshly-baked quiches and fruit focaccia, a juice bar, and eggs upon order from your table.
With half-board options available, the hotel restaurant, Food and Wine, easily stands on its own. The gourmet menu focuses on the regional dishes of Trentino. The large wine cellar includes national and local labels.
I had the chance to sample the poached alpine char in a coconut and porcini soup for a starter. Then, I had the braised veal ossobuco with crispy saffron rice and parsley gremolata for the main. Both were exceptional.
Moving on to other culinary highlights in the area, Grual, named after the mountain behind the restaurant, is located inside Lefay Resort and Spa Dolomiti. Chef Matteo Maezza welcomed us during our dinner as he made his rounds to the tables. It was wonderful to watch the diners’ reactions as he would switch languages from Italian, English, and French between the guests.
Originally from Trani in Puglia, he has worked in restaurants all over the world alongside some of the most renowned chefs, including Alain Ducasse who is considered the best chef of his generation and manages several three-star Michelin restaurants.
We decided on the eight-course tasting menu which did not disappoint. The standout dishes included the marinated trout in buttermilk, peas and smoked leek oil; the beetroot gnocchi with smoked ricotta and black tea; and the saddle of venison with deviled sauce and dro plums.
Rifugio Malga Ritorto is located just above Madonna di Campiglio and highlights a simple, authentic cuisine. We started with the lake appetizer: marinated trout and smoked salmon and char bites with bread and extra virgin olive oil. For the main course, I had the “twisted dish”: Storo polenta, with sausage, fresh porcini mushrooms and grilled cheese. We topped the night off with a classic apple strudel.
Sunday’s lunch at Pra de la Casa was the ultimate treat. There really is no fixed menu here; instead, the dishes depend entirely on what is locally sourced and foraged from the forest each day. The starter was immediately brought to our outdoor table.
Mouthwatering homemade focaccia filled with melted cheese was the first to be consumed. Followed by fresh slices of lard, speck, mountain cheeses, marinated pears, fresh pieces trout, and two types of local greens tossed with garlic, it was a spectacular way to start the meal. After that colossal starter, I was only able to manage a first course, the bread and spinach gnocchi in butter which was marvelous.
From both a gastronomic and luxury perspective, Madonna di Campiglio was a magnificent discovery for me which I highly recommend. I am already confirming my plans to return this winter.
Please see my other story about activities in Madonna di Campiglio
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