Finding music and mindfulness in the dizzy Dolomites

 MADONNA DI CAMPIGLIO-- In an open mountain pasture surrounded by the Dolomites, the classical musicians began to set up as the afternoon concertgoers laid out blankets.

 The Suoni delle Dolomiti Festival is a series of concerts that take place in the Trentino mountains, where rocky crags, alpine pastures and mountain lakes blend nature with music.

 Performing at the venue was Ilumina Ensemble, hailing from Brazil under the leadership of violinist, Jennifer Stumm. The classical music group pairs talented young players from diverse backgrounds with established musicians from the international concert scene, providing a mentorship program that leads young players to real professional opportunities.

 The performance was inspiring to watch and listen to. “I’ve never seen anything like it before,” said Hailey, visiting from London. “I’ve worked in the music PR business for 20-plus years. This is so unique.” On the hike back, similar comments were shared.

 We began the day with a beautiful funicular ride from Pinzolo. We arrived at Doss del Sabion at 2,109 M (6,919 ft), just in time to watch paragliders take off from the top of the mountain and glide above the valley. Then, it was a two-hour flat hike to the concert valley.

 Along the way, our guide, Aldo Turri, helped us learn the history of the area. He may well hold the record for the most ascents up the region’s tallest mountain, Cima Presanella, at 3,558 M (11,673 ft). We also crossed paths with some foragers who were showing off four full grocery baskets piled high with porcini mushrooms.

 The concert was in a beautiful mountain pasture surrounded by vertical Dolomite mountains. We enjoyed sandwiches from Alimentari Caola, a local gourmet supermarket selling some of the best regional products in Pinzolo. The grandmother of the family, now over 100 years old, is still active in the store.

 Madonna di Campiglio is located in the Val Rendena in Trentino, between the Brenta Dolomites to the east and the glaciers and granite mountains of Adamello-Presanella to the west. It is a six-hour trip from Rome by train and car, and a three-and-a-half-hour trip from Venice.

 The previous day had been focused on hiking. “It’s all about discovering the hidden gem,” was how John Gately from Colorado described the area over lunch at Rifugio Alimonta, at an altitude of 2,580 M (8,465 ft). As an experienced hiker and traveler, he had researched the trip with his wife, Julia, for months beforehand to find the perfect place.

 Canederli were on the menu. They are three large dumplings of bread that resemble pasta, mixed with egg, speck, and cheese, served in a bowl of butter with polenta. This was the perfect fuel after being dragged up 1,177 M (3,861 ft), by Sebastiano, a 23-year-old professional mountain guide, on Trail 317 in the Adamello Brenta National Park.

 Also, at the Rifugio, I met Ravi and Tiffany on their honeymoon. Ravi said they came because “One of my friends was hiking around the world for a year and this was his favorite spot.” They were enjoying the via ferratas--climbing routes with fixed steel cables, ladders, and iron rungs that help hikers scale dramatic mountain climbs safely.

 On the way back down, we were welcomed with apple strudel at Rifugio Ai Brentei. The clouds had started to roll in, which provided a cooler descent. In mid-September, after three days of rain, the trails were empty, except for some freshly grown porcini mushrooms. Why was this place such a big secret?

 Following the hike, we had a chance to walk through town to discover it’s history. Evolving from a 13th century monastery into a 19th century resort made famous by visits from Emperor Franz Joseph and Empress Sissi, Madonna di Campiglio has always been a beautiful place of refuge. After World War I, the area came under Italy’s control.

 With the popularity of skiing “Campiglio” as the residents call it, it became more of a winter sports destination. The first ski lift was built in 1936. It is home to Italy’s oldest ski race, the Alpine Ski World Cup, or the “3Tre” race.

 The next day, I met with Nicola and Cristia, who are wellness guides and introduced me to Dolomiti Natural Wellness. They guided me through a “total immersion in the forest” that consisted of slow hiking, meditation, barefoot walking, learning about nature, and what you can eat in the wild. The program started in Campiglio in 2018 but originates from Japan, where it is referred to as “forest bathing.”

 Hiking slowly was harder than I thought. “Take three steps to breathe in and three steps to breathe out,” Cristia instructed. I kept comparing the pace to my aggressive hike with Sebastiano, which I was still feeling.

 During the slow hike, I thought we would never get anywhere, but by contrast, I was able to look up, see the forest, listen to the birds and the stream. While on the fast hike, I had been staring at the ground most of the time, wondering if this would be a good place to land a helicopter, just in case I needed first aid.

 “We have to slow down and regenerate ourselves and live in the present,” repeated Cristia. She and Nicola were both Mountain Guides before becoming wellness guides. Nicola, the 16-year veteran wellness guide, trained Cristia, who has guided for the past three years.

 Nicola, a published author, has had his own share of adventures, including riding a bike across Australia from Darwin to Adelaide. Apparently, he was the first person to hang glide off of Uluru, the famous large rock in the middle of Australia.

 The “forest bath” was the perfect way to end the trip. After a few days spent in Madonna di Campiglio, I better understood the attraction to the mountains.

 The tranquility, peace and quiet provided a level of serenity that I had not experienced in a long time.

 I was able to find the perfect balance between exercise, culinary pursuits and beautiful vistas, making it the perfect place for a return trip.

 mlp

For hotel and culinary recommendation please see: Sauna rituals, luxury, and gastronomy in the Dolomites