On the Black Sea I scoffed the last authentic Italian pasta in Ukraine

 ODESA-Roberto Armaroli is a third-generation Italian restaurateur, training chefs and the only Italian chef certifying Italian restaurants in Ukraine. Quickly adapting his restaurant to the Russian invasion in 2022 and surviving drone attacks on trains has only added to his success and experience.

 We had a chance to discuss his career over coffee on the patio at Antica Cantina located in the historical centre of Odesa on a tree lined street. When Armaroli, 61 first saw the building that now houses the restaurant, he said to himself, “Oh, this is mine.”  

 The Cantina offers indoor and patio seating, as well as a beautiful old wine cellar that is built out with hand-painted murals and a traditional Neapolitan pizza oven.

 For dinner recommendations, he responded, “the duck breast with truffle mashed potatoes and Madeira sauce.” I enjoyed the Lasagna Nero with octopus and shrimp. The authentic woodfire pizzas were also a hit at the table. For dessert, we had a cannolo with white chocolate, pistachios, berries, and pistachio gelato.

 A late dinner after an opera performance, in the back of the beautiful wine cellar, provided a welcome reprieve from the ongoing war outside.

 Armaroli’s culinary journey started with his grandmother in Bologna and was passed down to his mother who ran a restaurant in Como. Now based in Odesa, he carries on the family tradition as a restaurant owner and consultant, teaching his craft to others in Ukraine.

I n 2016, Armaroli moved to Odesa after spending two years in Kyiv. When he went to the local food market and saw people acting like Neapolitans, he felt even more at home. In 2018 he opened his first restaurant in Odesa, “Nonna Letizia,” which is now closed.

 Running a restaurant during a war comes with complications. At the start of the Russian invasion, a quarter of his staff went to the front lines with the military. To combat frequent electricity outages, he bought a generator to keep the food refrigerated. Fresh supplies at the markets were often limited, but his customers understood and were satisfied with steak and potatoes at times.

 Throughout these turbulent times, he has continued to teach his craft to others. “I love to teach. In the past 20 years, I have had a lot of students,” said Armaroli, who has mentored many aspiring chefs inside his kitchens in Ukraine. “Cooking is the art of the moment. Here and now, I create not just a dish, but an emotion that a person will remember for a lifetime.”

 When asked if it was difficult to teach cooking to Ukrainians, he said, “It’s difficult like it’s difficult all over the world. You need to be a teacher with technique but also be critical. In Odesa, it’s easier because it’s a city with many diverse cultures and languages.”

 He travels to Dnipro twice a month where he serves as the Brand Chef at the restaurant Bella. On the menu you can find a classic carbonara or ravioli with foie gras in truffle sauce as a first course. Grilled pink squid and braised beef cheeks with polenta stand out as second course options.

 Because of its proximity to the eastern front lines, Dnipro faces frequent aerial attacks with much shorter warning times than Odesa. In spite of this, the restaurant continues to remain fully staffed and open for its customers under Armaroli’s leadership.

 He was particularly excited about his latest project, Mare Bello, a restaurant located just outside the Odesa city centre. “I am excited about delivering a simple, tasty cuisine with affordable prices for many citizens in such a difficult time,” he said.

 On the menu at Mare Bello, you will find a classic carbonara or spaghetti with shrimp and pesto. For mains, the restaurant features Seafood Spiedini—skewers of shrimp, baby squid, mussels and zucchini grilled with garlic and olive oil, alongside more authentic Neapolitan pizza.

 Through his restaurants and cooking classes, Armaroli continues to provide Ukraine with a gastronomic reprieve from the war, having decided to stay and continue his work throughout the conflict.

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