VICENZA-I did not know what to expect when I arrived at the Palazzo Villa Valmarana ai Nani. I did not imagine I would be sleeping under and next to frescos painted by Giambattista Tiepolo, a master of the late Baroque period, and his son, Giandomenico Tiepolo. Having the whole museum to myself at night seemed an unlikely reality, but that is what I experienced. I had a chance to wander seven heavily frescoed rooms long after closing hours when I was the only one in the Foresteria (“guest house” in Italian).

 I was fortunate enough to have the current owner, Carolina Valmarana, show me around, which from my understanding happens on occasion. The house has been in her family since the construction in the eighteenth century. When her uncle passed away, she and other family members decided to turn the palace into more of modern museum that would be available for events and unique stay experiences. 

 Carolina said she does not like the word museum but prefers inviting people to share an experience in a special home where she grew up as a child. The estate has had its share of special visitors, including Queen Elizabeth, Federico Fellini, Frank Sinatra and Salvador Dali, just to name a few.

 Walking the grounds with Carolina, I learned that the gardens and grounds are currently undergoing a two-million-euro renovation that will include a walking path that will be wheelchair accessible. The other updates will include modern lighting and signage and a viewing platform that will overlook the small valley below and the church of Saint Mary of Mount Berico. The Pagoda is already finished, with a new multimedia display inside explaining the frescos using lights and a narrative in multiple languages.

 The Palazzo is located just outside the City of Vicenza, a pleasant 20-minute walk slightly up hill, great for walking off dinner in town. The property includes a large formal garden and grounds that lead to the entrance of the must-see Villa La Rotonda, a sixteenth century hilltop villa designed by Andrea Palladio, one of the most historically influential architects in the world. 

 The property is situated in a runner’s paradise with jogging and hiking options in both directions, including a 20-minute hike up to the church of saint Mary of Mount Berico, built on a site where according to legend, in 1428, the Virgin Mary appeared before a local and promised to end the plague of Vicenza if they built a church on the hilltop. The people built the church, and the plague vanished. Next to the church there is an amazing overlook of the city.

 The City of Vicenza was awarded UNESCO Heritage site status in 1994 and is filled with gems including the last work from Andrea Palladio, the Olympic Theater. One of only three Renaissance theaters still in existence, it is considered a must-see. The theater still holds live performances in Spring and Fall and puts on a lightshow for visitors throughout the day. Also built by Palladio is the Basilica Palladiana, a large building in the center of town that was the seat of the government but now hosts exhibitions and civic events.

 Amenities at the hotel were standard because you are staying inside of a museum. The Italian breakfast was served in the café and included cornetti, yogurt, cappuccino, and juice. The real attraction was having the palace to yourself and having the opportunity to sleep under a Tiepolo. The stay was a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity I will not forget. It was a chance to go back in time and experience a period in history.mlp