Four reasons to head southeast of Rome

ANAGNI-For a travel experience off the beaten path, the hill towns of Anagni, Alatri, Ferentino and Veroli in greater Lazio offer a tranquil haven with a wealth of historical sites and culture away from the crowded Capital.

 Anagni, a small medieval hill town, lies southeast of Rome. The city is most famous for producing four popes during the 13^th century. The most famous, Boniface VIII, founded the first Roman University and set up the first Jubilee in 1300. The Pope was also portrayed in Dante’s Divine Comedy, ending up in Hell. Dante resented this pope due to his role in Florentine politics which expelled him from the city for the rest of his life.

 The Anagni Cathedral and Museum is one of the main attractions. The church was built in the late 11^th century in a Romanesque style. Bernard of Clairvaux and Clare of Assisi were both canonized here. The crypt, dedicated to Saint Magnus, is strikingly colorful with many biblical frescos depicting his life. The frescos also include a pictorial explanation on how the earth was created using the elements earth, fire, water, and air.

 Down the road, the Palace of the Popes was the former residence of Boniface VIII. The “Slap of Anagni” occurred here in 1303 when the pope was captured by French emissaries and the Colonna family during a conflict with King Philip IV of France. The capture of the pope was not a literal slap, but was viewed as a moral outrage like an actual slap. The museum highlights include the chess room where the slap occurred, the Room of the Geese where you can see partial frescos from the 13^th century and Traditio legis, a marble slab from 390 AD, that shows a depiction of Christ handing down the new law to apostles Peter and Paul.

 The Museum of Archaeological Enrico of MAE highlights Anagni’s prehistoric history dating back two million years. MAE does a great job explaining the prehistoric history of the area and displaying its findings, including four teeth discovered on the site belonging to Homo heidelbergensis , an ancestor of modern humans and neanderthals.

 For a gastronomic experience, head to Ristorante de Gallo. The 13^th century property has its roots tied to some of the most important events in Anagni. The current restaurant was started in the late 19^th century by Vincenzo Pampanelli. Their specialty dish is from an old family recipe, “Il Timballo alla Bonifacio VIII.” The dish consists of homemade egg fettuccine and veal meatballs in a tomato ragu with giblets covered in a layer of prosciutto baked in an oven. The final product is then sliced in pieces and served. This dish is worth the visit alone.

 A 30-minute drive to the east, Alatri a hill town known for its beautiful acropolis which is the highest point in the city. Other worthwhile sites include, the Basilica of Saint Paul which was constructed around the 11^th century. A side chapel displays the Eucharistic miracle of Alatri of 1228. In the chapel next door lies the remains of Maria Raffaella Cimatti who was beatified by the pope in 1996 for her heroic virtue through her work with the Hositaller Sisters of Mercy.

 The Cloister of San Francesco located in a 13^th century Franciscan complex is worth a visit. There is a labyrinth fresco with Christ in the centre dating back to the medieval period. The labyrinth is considered an analogy for a spiritual journey.

 Ristorante Tre Grana is housed in a beautifully restored 12^th century building. The name comes from a coin that was found during the renovation that was minted by Napoleons brother-in-law, Joachim Murat. Here you can still witness one of the senior cooks making the pasta by hand. The tagliatelle with porcini was a standout dish along with the house antipasto that features a large selection of prosciutto, salami, pecorino and burrata.

 A short drive north will lead you to the hill top town of Veroli. A top attraction, the Civic Archaeological Museum displays several finds from antiquity including a Roman calendar. The museum is located below the Town Hall and displays an old Roman passage directly underneath it.

 The Giovardiana library is an interesting site due to its large collection of historic texts and 18th century architectural setting. It was established in 1773 by the Clergyman Vittorio Giovardi and was the first public library in southern Lazio.

 The 13^th century Basilica of Santa Maria Salome is known for its saintly steps. As in Rome, the steps must be climbed on one knee, and by concession of Pope Benedict XIV, it is possible to obtain an indulgence by doing so. You can find the Saint’s remains in the Chapel of Confession.

 At the Panettiere Angelica Baldassarre, you can still witness them make traditional ciambella di Veroli, a traditional anise-flavored bread shaped into a ring. There are many versions of this baked bread, but their version is a chewy dough coated in sugar which makes it difficult to stop eating after the first five.

 Just outside the town, you will find the Casamari Abbey, an Italian Cistercian monastery from the 13th century. The abbey has a pharmacy, an archaeological museum, and a library. The highlights are the prehistoric elephant tusk from the ice age and the library itself which contains numerous historic volumes and is considered a national monument.

 Another escape outside the city is the Prato di Campoli which offers numerous hiking trails to Monte Fragara, just over 2,000 meters high (6,561ft.) The road into the forest with white trees, green moss, cows grazing near streams, can be a retreat from spending time in medieval historical towns.

 One of the best dining options in town is the Hotel Filonardi by executive chef Mario Quattrociocchi. Some of the notable dishes were the fried artichokes in a potato puree, the maltagliati cannellini beans and the second course of Garofolato, a traditional Roman braised beef dish with cloves.

 A 30-minute drive towards Rome, the Porta Montana welcomes you into the city of Ferentino. The double-arched gate named in the Middle Ages is where the ancient cattle market was located outside the city’s walls. Following the main road into the centre, you will find a preserved Roman Market from the first century B.C. The market consists of a hall lined with shops and was a model for Trajan’s Market in Rome.

 The newly restored Roman theater is an impressive site. The recent restoration includes new materials that line up with the original plan now used for local performances. You can still make out the Roman stamps in the bricks that line the theater. The theater is next to the ninth century church of Saint Lucia which houses some restored frescos. The church was built on top of remains of Roman thermal baths possibly dedicated to Emperor Flavian’s wife.

 A striking feature about the city is a walking path surrounding the city’s ancient wall made up of large limestone blocks placed together without mortar in the fourth century BC. The path leads you to a monument dedicated to Aulo Quintilio Prisco, a Roman authority and patron of the city. The inscriptions state his public positions and the benefit he helped bring to the citizens of Ferentino.

 Trattoria Consolare is a great place for a meal in town. They serve local dishes including Taglioni alla Ciocciara, thin spaghetti with white beef ragu and rosemary pesto in a historical setting.

 These four Lazio hill towns offer a retreat from busy Rome and a chance to discover a history and culture dating back to antiquity. Due to their mountainous location, they also offer a reprieve from the oppressive Italian summer.