Italian Fashion: from past to present the Tuscan capital leads the way

FLORENCE- This month, the Bernini Palace Hotel hosted a discussion between Eva Desiderio, author of the book, “The Birth of Italian Fashion. Florence 1951,” and Neri Fadigati, President of the Giorgini Archive in Florence and the grandson of Giovani Battist Giorgioni. The artist Emir Kamis also introduced his new exhibition, “Sculpted Fashion.”

 This Renaissance capital was the birthplace of modern Italian fashion after the first Italian fashion show was held there in 1951. The location was Villa Torrigiani, the home of the Italian entrepreneur, Giovan Batttista Giorgioni.

 In her book, Eva recreates the fashion period of the day when French style was leading the world. Italian tailors were relatively unknown at the time. Giorgioni, in his career as a buyer, had discovered and promoted high-quality Italian craftsman in America and was a great salesman. She describes Giorgioni as “an elegant nobleman and a highly experience buyer for the American market” who used his connections to invite the world’s top newspapers and representatives of the leading American department stores to his home for the first Italian high fashion show.

 The show was a success, and a year later the show was moved to Sala Bianca in Palazzo Pitti for the next 15 years. Often considered the most stunning ballroom in Florence, it was redesigned in the 18^th century with white high relief stuccos, giving it the name, “The White Hall.”

 Following the discussion of fashion history, the sculptor, Emir Kamis introduced his new show being held at the Hotel Bernini Palace, “Sculpted Fashion. Stories in Marble by Emir Kamis,” curated by Federico Poletti. His sculptures represented fashion articles including shoes, bags and even a belt created out of colored marble.

 Stating that less than 10 percent of the marble in the world is colored versus the majority being white, he expressed a little frustration in trying to create a handle for a particular bag sculpture and having to start over several times. The pieces came off extremely well and match the elegance of the hotels main lobby.

 The Hotel Bernini Palace was an ideal setting for this event. Located behind the Palazzo Vecchio, it is only a few steps away from the Bargello. The 14^th century palace was built for the Della Pera family, who were mentioned in Dante’s “Paradiso.” Transitioning to a hotel in the 17^th century, it was known for being the first hotel with running water for its guests and stable.

 The hotel became the centre of political life during Florence’s Capital Era (1865-1870) due to its location behind Palazzo Vecchio. Today, the five-star hotel is part of Duetorrihotels, an Italian luxury hotel chain, and provides an luxurious escape from the historic centre of Florence.

 Moving onto the future of fashion, Manifattura Tabacchi, a newly repurposed tobacco factory, is the site of some great innovations in the world of fashion. It is located just outside the centre next to the old hunting grounds for the Medici family, the Cascine Park. The complex is home to Polimoda, one of the world’s leading fashion schools, as well as 250 apartments, 11,300 square meters (122,000sf) of designer shops, restaurants and about 37,000 square meters (400,000sf) of office and coworking space. The regeneration project is very sustainable, adding over 1,000 trees, roof top gardens, climbing plants on the facades, along with adding water and energy efficient systems throughout the complex.

 Constructed by Peter Luigi Nervi in the 1930s in the Italian rationalist style, the factory was active for 70 years.  More than 1,400 workers, mostly women, produced cigarettes and cigars along with processing tobacco. The President of Polimoda, Ferruccio Ferragamo, said that, “Looking to the future and at the same time preserving this extraordinary architectural heritage, this space will give its inhabitants, Polimoda students, and the citizens of Florence a place which is alive and can be enjoyed by everybody.”

 Across the river, a smaller regeneration project, the Coventino, provides a space for local artisans practicing the traditional techniques of the area. Built in the late 1800s as a Convent on Via Giano della Bella, the property was transformed into a military hospital during World War I. In the 1920s, a new owner welcomed artists and craftsman, turning the property into a progressive meeting place for philosophers and writers. The property even housed a secret printing press during the fascist era.

 The City of Florence completely renovated the property in 2009 and today is managed by Officina Creativa by Artex which helped transform the complex into a 3,500 sqm (37,000sf) multipurpose space including a fashionable cafeteria. The property’s courtyard is frequently filled with local artists enjoying an escape from the city.

 Today, the facility accommodates over 30 residents, including artists, decorators, designers, and jewelry makers. Silvia Logi is a resident artist who creates art using recycled materials like wood, glass, ceramic tiles, and metal. Some works represent local places in Florence like the façade of Santa Maria Novella under a starlit night.

 Learning about Florence’s history and fashion and seeing its future through the regeneration projects show that the city is still attracting talented artists to lead the way after a storied past.