Tunisia: the next Mediterranean getaway

 TUNIS — Tunisia is becoming an increasingly popular tourist destination and for a good reason – the country is full of interesting sights, including former Italian Prime Minister Bettino Craxi's final resting place,  the people are friendly, the food is delicious and it is relatively cheap. From Rome to Tunis, it is only a 50-minute flight. From London, a flight time of three hours.  

 Why else did I decide to go to Tunisia you may ask? Having graduated in modern foreign languages, I decided the linguist in me needed a challenge, so I stayed in Carthage for three weeks to study Arabic before staying an extra week to discover more of the country. I must note that the learning Arabic part is not obligatory for anyone heeding my travel advice. 

 Understandably, there has been concern surrounding security in Tunisia due to a spate of terrorist attacks in recent memory, including the 2015 attacks on the Bardo National Museum and a beach in Sousse in which 30 British nationals were killed. I must say I felt safe in Tunisia, and in many tourist hotspots and at the airport there was heightened security. 

 The northern part of the country reminded me of Spain, Greece or Italy, with Mediterranean landscapes and olive groves stretching as far as the eye can see. Olive oil is a key part of the diet in Tunisia, like much of the Mediterranean and with most meals a side of bread is served with olive oil, harissa and hummus. As a North African country, couscous is a staple dish that I ate frequently with meat or fish throughout my stay. Other Tunisian staples I enjoyed included shakshouka, lablabi (a dish made from chickpeas and a garlic broth) and the streetfood makloub which was similar to shawarma or gyros. The food in Tunisia certainly reflects the country's rich history and the influence of several waves of colonialism. 

 Roman and Punic ruins are dotted around the country, with a notable concentration around Carthage. A designated UNESCO World Heritage site since 1979, the Archaeological Site of Carthage consists of several sites dispersed throughout modern day Carthage, now a suburb of Tunis. The sites reveal the place’s history, from being founded by the Phoenicians in the 9^th century B.C., to becoming the centre of Punic civilisation and a Mediterranean superpower that was only rivalled by Rome, to later becoming the capital of the Roman province of Africa following Carthage’s defeat in the Punic Wars. Other traces of Tunisia’s rich history can be found in the sites – Vandal, Paleo-Christian and Arab remains are also on display throughout the sites and in museums, including the Bardo National Museum.

 The most spectacular views come from hill of Byrsa which was the centre of the Punic city and later of the Roman city. The hill is dominated by a former cathedral built by the French with both Roman and Punic ruins in the foreground and a stunning view across the Gulf of Tunis in the background. Other sites include the Roman Villas, offering (more) incredible views amid the ruins of several Roman villas with well-preserved mosaics still in the floor, the Roman baths by the sea, and the Punic Ports which still maintain the original and recognisable shape of the Punic war and commercial harbours.  A ticket to enter all the sites costs 12 dinar – approximately four euros – and is valid for one day, so I highly recommend spending one day to explore all sites thoroughly.

 If Carthage is worth devoting a day to, then so is the rest of Tunis. The medina is another UNESCO World Heritage site to explore – it is one of the oldest medinas in North Africa, composed of several souks with countless artisans, over 700 ancient monuments and winding streets. At the centre is Zaytouna Mosque, which according to legend is built over the grave of the Sicilian saint, St. Olivia. Throughout the medina there are signs of the country’s Ottoman history, including several mosques, the Madrassa Slemania and the Dar El Jeld, the former centre of Ottoman administration which is now a hotel and spa. There are several shops and cafes which have roof access for a stunning view over the sprawling medina and the Gulf of Tunis.

 On completion of my Arabic course, I decided to head south and explore more of the country. First stop: Hammamet. Italian readers will probably recognise the name due to its links with former Italian Prime Minister Bettino Craxi, who fled to Tunisia to avoid arrest in Italy following his involvement in the Mani Pulite political scandal and lived the rest of his life in Hammamet. Several Italian expats I talked to over espressos proudly declared they were ‘Craxiani’ and had followed Craxi into his ‘exile’. His grave is an Italian tourist hotspot, located within the Christian cemetery and well looked after by a caretaker.

 Disgraced Italian politicians aside, Hammamet felt as if I was in southern Italy - gorgeous beaches, a calm blue sea, a surrounding countryside of mountains and olive groves, and countless Neapolitans sat drinking coffee and playing cards. The medina was much smaller than that of Tunis and felt more touristic, although the fort within offered stunning views over the town and its beaches. One day was enough for me to see the sights in Hammamet, although for those wanting a beach holiday it is the perfect place to visit.

 Deciding to see more of the country and determined to see the Sahara, I booked a trip to head even further south and explore iconic sights along the way. Waking up bright and early on the morning of the trip, my journey began at 6 a.m. Heading south, we stopped by El Jem to see the biggest Roman amphitheatre in Africa and the third biggest in the world after the ones in Rome and Capua. I, of course, immediately had to let my dad know I was in a filming location for Monty Python Life of Brian. Standing at 36 metres high, 148 metres in length and 122 metres wide, it is still incredibly well preserved, although not fully complete due to a breach in the wall created during the Revolutions of Tunis in the 17th century. 

 The next stop was the village of Matmata, where Amazigh people still live in underground houses carved into the rock. These houses reminded me of the sassi (cave dwellings) in Matera. For the Star Wars fans amongst you, some may recognise Matmata as the real-life filming location for Luke Skywalker’s childhood home on Tatooine. Lunch was a typical Tunisian dish of brik, followed by couscous with meat and then makroudh for dessert. The village, although remote, is worth a visit to learn more about the indigenous inhabitants of Tunisia and for views across the semi-Saharan hilly landscapes of central Tunisia.

 Following a long drive through the Tunisian countryside, which turned from the olive groves and green of the Mediterranean to the sparse and dry of the Sahara, we eventually arrived at our campsite, located near the city of Douz in southwestern Tunisia. The campsite truly felt as if it were in the middle of nowhere, due to it being surrounded by rolling Saharan dunes and consisting of Bedouin tents and two small buildings, however the comfortable beds, showers and WiFi ensured the ‘glamping’ experience was rather pleasant. Dinner was included in the price and I found myself eating camel meat, which reminded me of lamb. After desert specialities for dinner, I headed outside to stargaze in the perfectly clear night sky. 

 The next morning, we rose with the sun and headed north to the largest salt flat in the Sahara, Chott el Djerid. The road seemed to stretch forever, with the Atlas Mountains rising to the right-hand side and mirages surrounding us. It was breathtaking, otherworldly; hence it being used as a common filming location, including for Star Wars. Heading north-west towards the Algerian border where the salt flat slowly gave away to sand, we reached Chebika, a desert oasis located at the foot of the Atlas Mountains, only 8k.m. away from the Algerian border.

 Although we were immediately bombarded by locals trying to sell us souvenirs, the sights were worth seeing. We climbed the mountain, passing through the old town, which was abandoned in 1969 due to severe flooding, so we could see the green of the palm trees sprawled out against the harsh desert below. Climbing down into the gorge, we reached the natural spring and the waterfall ensuring there is water all year round, providing a refreshing respite in the desert heat. The sun in the desert was nothing to be scoffed at, even though it was February, I managed to return home with a slight tan!

 Throughout my adventure in Tunisia, the people were always welcoming and friendly, and most of them (especially the taxi drivers) would happily speak in French, English or Italian to me and talk about their lives. The food was delicious, the weather pleasant and the country one of the most memorable places I’ve ever been.  It is certainly only a matter of time before I go back there again.

 khg