Beyond Prosecco in Veneto

CONEGLIANO- We awoke in the Prosecco capital to our first blue sky. It was then that I realized what a beautiful place we were in, at the foothills of the snow-capped Dolomites in the rolling green hills of perfectly terraced vineyards with little churches on hilltops you could see in every direction.

 With all the attention in Cortina this winter, my trip to Conegliano was a welcomed diversion. The Ca’ de Poggio four-star hotel is just a few miles outside of the town, situated on top of one of the prosecco hills. The hotel is famous for the Muro di Ca’ del Poggia, a 1.1 km (0.68 miles) climb that takes place during Italy’s most famous bike race, the Giro D’Italia.

 I had a chance to speak with the owner, Alberto Stocco, and he agrees with me about the view being a strength of the property. His favorite part of the hotel “is the outdoor solarium area, with the infinity pool, open during the summer overlooking the hills.” Their busy season starts in spring and lasts through autumn. Rooms start at 135 euros in winter and average 175 euros in summer.

 The resort offers a spa and seafood restaurant worth the drive from town alone. Alberto said, “Our specialty, as you have seen, is a seafood cuisine, and I can say that our signature dishes are: fish crudités, risotto with prawns and Prosecco, salt-crusted sea bass.”

 The Prosecco Hills of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene have been recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2019. Aberto told me about his favorite prosecco that they happen to produce as well, “Ca’ del Poggio BRUT DOCG Prosecco Superiore Conegliano – Valdobbiadene which has asparkling fruity and intense bouquet, with a fine perlage.”

 Back in the historic town, the 10^th century castle of Conegliano overlooks the area and can be seen from many points in the city. The castle is considered the symbol of the city and also holds the town’s civic museum. I found a friendly cat in the inviting courtyard which has a wonderful restaurant, “Al Castello,” with views overlooking even more prosecco hills. In the summer they have an open terrace with panoramic views.

 The most notable artist from Conegliano was Giambattista Cima (1459-1517), an Italian Renaissance painter from the Venetian School. You will find his work “Madonna and Child with Angels and Saints” inside the Duomo at the high altarpiece which is also located next to his birthplace. The painting, originally painted with oil on wood, was transferred to canvas in the 20^th century.

 Located in town is the GB Cereletti Wine School, established in 1876, and is the oldest wine college in Italy. There you will find the Manzoni Museum dedicated to Luigi Manzoni, the first professor and principal of the school. Thanks to his research techniques, he discovered a way to create resistant vineyards that still produce the characteristics of a great wine. Wines today, are still produced bearing his name, “Manzoni Bianco.”

 Located in the northeastern part of the region of Veneto, Conegliano is a just over a 30-minute train ride from Venice, 15 minutes to Treviso, and an hour to Padua. Cortina d’Ampezzo is about 90 minutes north by car.

 For me, Conegliano and Ca’ Del Poggio were yet more charming revelations in the Veneto region. Both the town and the hotel are worthwhile trips to discover the many layers of Northern Italy. mlp

CA’ DEL POGGIO

Via dei Pascoli, 8 - 31020 San Pietro di Feletto (TV)

P.Iva 03080310265 - SDI M5UXCR1

www.cadelpoggio.it