New Years in Alghero plus so much more

ALGHERO, Sardinia-From Grottos and red coral to ancient historical sites, Barceloneta, (little Barcelona) has something for everyone. While strolling the streets of the waterfront Catalan influenced old town, the laid-back pace is a welcoming excursion from busy Rome.

 The Catalan influence in the city stems from the 14^th century when the Crown of Aragon colonized the area, expelling the Genoese. This event led to a legacy visible today in the city’s language, cuisine, and architecture.

 An example of this influence is “Il Cap d’Any al’ Alguer” which is Catalan for new year's Eve in Alghero. This is a not only a New Years eve celebration but a large-scale event that turns the city into a stage of music, shows and traditional celebrations. These include “cenone” a large New Years Eve dinner and “Musica dai Balconi” where musicians play from balconies in the historic center.

 Multiple events are held in December then culminating with a New Years Eve concert in the Piazzale of Peace. Famous artists such as Gabry Ponte, performing this year, plus markets, events for kids all together mixing with Catalan culture to make it one of the best “end of the year” events in Sardinia. The event is organized by the Municipality of Alghero and the Alghero foundation.

 Alghero is also known as the “heart of the coral riviera due to the historical abundance of the high-quality red coral grows” said Davide Simula, a local coral craftsmen and owner of La Corallina. Before visiting his shop, we started our tour at the aquarium at Torre de Sant Jaume, where he taught us about the environment that the coral grows and how it is cultivated. Then we walked down the street to the Coral Museum of Alghero, to learn about the history of diving for the coral and the displays of astonishing coral artwork. Including jewelry, sculptures and even chess sets.

 At the museum we were introduced to the Corallium Rubrum Trademark which the Municipality of Alghero developed to guarantee uniqueness of the coral product. Our guide’s shop was included on the list which was our last stop. After the tour I had a better appreciation for the red coral and was a much more knowledgeable consumer.

 For an amazing stay in Alghero, you can book the Hotel Villa Las Tronas and join Liz Taylor, Richard Burton, Madona, George Cluney and many other distinguished visitors on the guest list. The Villa was built in 1880 on the ruins of a watchtower by Alessandro, the third count of St. Elia. In the early 1900s the villa became a meeting place for the high society of the time including the Romanov princesses and Italian Royalty. After the Second World War, the owners moved to Argentina and in 1959 sold the property to Leonardo Masia and his wife Giuseppona Fonnesu who turned the property into a hotel.

 Currently the hotel is run by Leonardo’s grandson’s wife, Barbara La Spina. She recounted the history of the Villa and said “the guests always return, because this is not a hotel this is a home, a villa on the sea.” The friendly staff and even the cat verified this.

 Located on a peninsula which gives every room a water view. The hotel offers an outdoor pool with a sea view, plus a modern spa with a heated pool, Turkish bath, sauna, and a modern gym. Located a short walk from the center. The lobby and common areas transport you back in time and give you a feeling of high society. The main sitting area includes furniture from the last Russian Czar and other antiques from around the world. You will also find a billiards room along with chandeliers and framed historic photos. There is even a private helicopter pad for the guests that would like to avoid ferries or hydrofoils from the mainland.

 A short drive outside of the city is Neptune’s Grotto, which can be effortlessly approached by boat or since 1954 you now can climb down the 654 rock cut steps. Either way you are rewarded with a geological phenomenon, inside a large series of caves that includes majestic concretions of stalagmites, and stalactites, surrounded by a cave lake.

 You can access most of the site on a guided tour thanks to another rock cut path. The water reflects the rock formations and helps make for great pictures along with the high ceilings that reach up to 18 meters at their highest point. You will earn your lunch on the stairway back, but be sure to pace yourself and enjoy the many photo opportunities.

 There are many historical sites outside of the old town. Two that are worth a visit are the Necropolis of Anghelu Ruju, (4200-1800 BC) and Palmavera, (1500-700 BC). The ancient cemetery was discovered during excavations in the early 1900s and grave goods were discovered in the multiple chamber tombs. During our visit we were able to see an archeologist at work. She was able to identify one of the most striking features of the site for us, the longhorn bull head carvings, just outside the tomb.

 The Palmavera site consists of a series of ancient towers built by the Nuragic civilization (1800-238 BC). The site’s restorations help you to experience what it was like inside one of the main towers. In another tower, you can still make out the seats that line the circular walls along with a throne where the leader or priest would sit.

 For a vineyard excursion Stella and Mosca is a nice retreat. The winery was started by two Piedmontese friends that were exploring Sardinia over 125 years ago. Today you can visit, stay, or dine at the historic property. We enjoyed a tour, wine tastings, and lunch at the winery. The seller was impressive with the long corridors lined with wine barrels perfectly aligned. They pointed out the fresh water spring which ran under the property. The tour was followed by multiple tastings and a light lunch.

 The estate had a real sense of tranquility about it. Though our guide who had worked for the company for 20 years, Antonella Ninniri said “we are open all year round and it is calm now but the summer is our busy season.”

 The standout wines were the Mirall and Oscari both listed as an Alghero Torbato Spumantes. Torbato is an acient grape which offers a unique citrus, chamomile, and mineral intricacy. The extra virgin olive oil was excellent as well. Lunch consisted of a chestnut soup with fresh porcini mushrooms followed by fregola pasta with squid and vegetables.

 In the future, the city will get a boost to its tourism industry. Starting summer 2026 the city will host Ironman 70.3. The location offers ideal conditions for a triathlon including calm waters, a relative flat bike course and a running path that goes through the historic center. I had a chance to enjoy a sunrise run along the water through the oldtown and it was a great experience. Also, in 2026 Delta Airlines will begin direct seasonal flights from New York to Sardegna from May to October.

 Having visited Alghero briefly in the past I was completely unaware of its deep historic past and cultural ties to the red coral cultivation. This trip forced me to take a closer look at what the region has to offer and has made Alghero stand out as great Mediterranean destination. Please see my other article for a culinary tour of the region. https://www.italianinsider.it/?q=node/13869