Discovering Dostoyevsky’s ghost in the Black Forest

BADEN-BADEN- If you find yourself looking for a weekend getaway, try following in the footsteps of the famous 19th century author, Fyodor Dostoevsky in one the great spa towns of Europe, according to UNESCO.

 Please beware though, just as Dostoyevsky lost his shirt at the historic casino, you may need to go naked at the traditional bathhouse, if you want to take part in the acclaimed health-giving waters with the German locals.

 When describing the place to friends after our trip, I said, “it was like the town described by the Russian author in “The Gambler.” I couldn’t believe that it was the exact setting when I realized that afterwards. According to some, the author had some big losses at the roulette tables in the 1860s and wrote the book to avoid going into debt with a publisher that would have all of the rights to his published work for a decade.

 The casino today, where Dostoevsky lost money, is known as the Kurhaus of Baden-Baden, opened in 1824 and designed by architect Friedrich Weinbrenner. Marlene Dietriech, a German American actress and singer from the 1920s with a career spanning seven decades, called it “the most beautiful casino in the world.”

 During my evening visit, I discovered two ways to see the casino floor. There was a tour the following morning when the casino is empty, which was similar to a tour I took at the casino in Monte Carlo. Although it was a great opportunity for pictures, the place felt lifeless. The other option was to rent a jacket from them for 10 euros, since the casino has a strict dress code, and I arrived at the casino dressed in business casual.

 Trying defuse the situation, I requested a designer dress jacket. Without missing a beat, the tailor replied, “Not with your shoes.” I was humbled but ready for my walk-through. Unfortunately, pictures were not allowed during playing hours. At around 6 p.m. on a weekday, the place was not that full, but the roulette wheels were spinning. I was struck by the alluring 19th century build-out which incorporated frescos, grand chandeliers and green-glassed ceiling domes that gave the place a lot more personality than its counterpart in Monico.

 Dinner was across from our hotel at the recommended M10 Badisches which was surprisingly difficult to get a table on a week night. Luckly we were seated after a few minutes of waiting in the lobby. My partner enjoyed the duck thigh with potato gratin, apple red cabbage and wild berry sauce. After a quick consultation with the waiter, we decided the mix of Maultachen,(large square German pasta pockets filled with a mixture of ingredients), would be the best regional cuisine to try.

 My order included veal and wild mushrooms, spinach and feta, and pumpkin and parmesan. For dessert, we chose the warm local Poppyseed cake, which included vanilla ice cream, berries and handmade caramel sauce. Everything was delicious, and I understood why there was a wait.

 The next day I consulted with Laura Bovers, the 3rdgeneration owner of our hotel, the Hotel am Markt, about our limited time. We were deciding between the hike up to the castle above town and going to one of the spas. She replied, “Why don’t you do both?” The hike was challenging and beautiful, mostly uphill to the castle, but a chance to walk through the Black Forest on a crisp fall day was worth it.

 Reaching the ruins of the ancient Altes Schoss zu Hohenbaden castle, we were amazed at the view over Baden-Baden and the other valleys. The castle has been restored with walkways that allow you to climb to the top. There is also a small restaurant with outdoor seating.

 The Friedrichsbad, a Roman-Irish bathhouse built in 1868 was a nice reward when we returned to town. The Roman-Irish bath combines Roman and Irish bathing traditions into a sequence of warming and cooling stages. The baths rely on the natural hot springs of the town and were constructed over the ancient roman baths, where today there is a museum located under the spa. The architecture is based on the Ancient Roman Caracalla and Diocletian Baths in Rome.

 Being a traditional German bath, they only allow swimwear two days a week. Unfortunately for us, today was not one of those days. Included in your visit are slippers, towels, lotions and tea in the reading room and the use of the nap room. You are also provided with a plan to the 14 rooms that consist of saunas and various pools of cold, room temperature and warm waters. The recommended time is three hours, but you can stay for as long as you want. The nudity was difficult for us during the first hour, but we became more relaxed throughout the visit. Afterwards we were glad we went and did not miss out due to our American discomfort.

 Regarding our experience at the spa, Laura said, “The people say you feel like a newborn after the spa – you are tired and hungry.”  She was right! Baden-Baden made a great impression on us. I can highly recommend a fall visit to this town. In fact, I have been planning a return trip since we returned home.