Generational shift at Milan fashion week: all eyes on the most anticipated debuts this september

The official calendar, released by Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, includes 59 shows 55 physical and four digital setting the stage for a season of bold experimentation and fresh narratives. From major house transitions to new international names entering the spotlight, the SS26 edition is being hailed as one of the most pivotal in recent memory.

Demna at Gucci: A disruptive new chapter

Leading the charge is Demna, making his much-anticipated debut for Gucci following his departure from Balenciaga. Known for his provocative, experience-driven presentations, Demna is expected to eschew a traditional catwalk show in favour of something more immersive. The event, scheduled for Tuesday 23 September at 7pm, will close the first day of shows, likely at a still-undisclosed location. His arrival at the Florentine house signals a potentially radical shift in Gucci’s aesthetic direction.

Simone Bellotti for Jil Sander: refined minimalism revisited

Another notable appointment is Simone Bellotti, who takes the helm at Jil Sander after the exit of Luke and Lucie Meier. Bellotti, previously part of the brand’s in-house design team, is set to open the Wednesday schedule with a collection expected to blend Jil Sander’s iconic minimalist rigor with a more pragmatic, modern sensibility.

Louise Trotter at Bottega Veneta: quiet modernity

Louise Trotter, the acclaimed British designer formerly of Lacoste and Joseph, will make her first outing for Bottega Veneta on Saturday afternoon. Following the departure of Matthieu Blazy, Trotter is anticipated to bring her refined, understated touch to the house’s legacy of craft and material innovation. Her approach may usher in a new era of quiet luxury,albeit possibly dialling down the artistic tension that defined Blazy’s tenure.

International talent on the rise

Beyond the major houses, Milan is also welcoming a new wave of international voices. London-based duo KNWLS, led by Charlotte Knowles and Alexandre Arsenault, will show on Wednesday evening, bringing their signature fusion of body-conscious silhouettes and cyberpunk references. Meanwhile, David Koma continues his creative partnership with Blumarine, and Dhruv Kapoor typically part of Milan’s menswear calendar makes his womenswear debut, offering a streetwear-infused vision rooted in spiritual and cultural identity.

Notable returns and key absences

This season also sees the return of rising Italian labels such as Calcaterra, Federico Cina, Stella Jean, and The Attico, all of whom are expected to inject fresh energy into the evolving landscape of next-gen fashion brands.

Notably absent from the official calendar is Versace. Industry sources suggest that new creative director Dario Vitale may be preparing a private presentation, opting to operate outside the traditional schedule. Following the recent acquisition of Versace’s parent company by the Prada Group, the future direction of the house remains closely watched.

A grand finale: Giorgio Armani celebrates 50 years

The week will close on a high note with a special anniversary show from Giorgio Armani on Sunday 28 September, marking 50 years of the Armani maison. The event is set to honour the designer’s enduring influence on Italian fashion and his global legacy.

This SS26 edition of Milan Fashion Week signals a moment of transformation: a testing ground for new creative visions, a rethinking of fashion’s visual codes, and, above all, a return to storytelling that resonates with a new generation.

 

Insider Newsdesk