Is Florence still a feasible day trip from Rome?

FLORENCE - Known as the birthplace of the Renaissance, and well worth a visit for any traveler who comes to Italy, the World Heritage site city can be seen in a day trip from Rome. But is it worth it? My answer is yes, if planned and executed efficiently. Over the years, I have led too many day trips to the dazzling capital of Tuscany. After this last one, though, I was impressed with many things that I experienced with my friend from London. Having lived in Florence for a year at the start of this century, I can claim to have a slight advantage over the average person when touring the city.
Like Venice, Florence can be full of day trippers during high season, which tends to be all months outside of February. There are several touts, crowds, bad restaurants, and long lines to be avoided. It’s best to plan the popular sites at the start of your trip or near the end to avoid the crowds.
Prep work is also key to an effective trip. Research in advance to find out which places are most important or interesting to you and your guest(s). Book the big things in advance: The Uffizi Gallery, the Accademia museum, and lunch at a recommended restaurant if possible. Train is the best transportation option (90 minutes each way), and tickets can be reasonable if booked far enough in advance. We left at 8 a.m. in the morning and returned at 8:30 p.m. in the evening.
The walk to the Uffizi provided a great introduction to the city. It’s always great to see the expression on the visitors’ faces when they walk around the corner and see the Duomo for the first time. Next, we headed to Palazzo Vecchio to see where Michelangelo’s original David stood, now replaced by a replica. Finally, we entered the Uffizi skipping the line thanks to the pre-booked tickets.
With the largest collection of Renaissance Art in the world, this museum is imperative for visitors. The museum had manageable crowds, much fewer than the Louvre in Paris. The collection includes a treasure of masterpieces from Giotto to Caravaggio and is well worth the visit.
The Accademia was next on the list where we saw the original David by Michelangelo which was moved here from Piazza della Signoria in 1873. David is placed at the end of the hallway underneath natural light which creates an illuminating experience when you turn the corner and view it for the first time. Other standouts in the museum include the Slaves, half-finished sculptures intended for the tomb of Pope Julius II, but given to the Medici by Michelangelo’s nephew after his death.
Santo Spirito, our old neighborhood, makes the perfect borough for lunch. As we crossed the river Arno, we lost some of the crowds and found more locals. We were very happy to find Dalla Lola, a block away from Piazza Santo Spirito. To me, this place represented the new Florence, young hip, international and creative. The owner expressed the same idea from their website. “We like to shake things up: we blend tradition with ingredients, flavors and techniques from around the world.” We started with the tortellini, deep-fried with prosciutto and cheese, as an antipasto, dipped in a semi sweet cream sauce. Next was pasta with local porcini mushrooms, and we finished with couscous di pollo.
Though relatively new on the scene, Dalla Lola has already been praised by Stanley Tucci and other critics. The name “Dalla Lola” comes from the previous owners, Maurizio and his mother, Lola. For decades, the location was a popular café frequented by Gucci employees from the showroom across the street, as well as numerous furniture woodworkers that had small workshops in the neighborhood. Maurizio would run the bar, serving up cappuccinos for under a Euro and making sure the fresh pastries were warmed perfectly in the small toaster oven. Lola, his mother and the namesake of Dalla Lola, would create a chalkboard lunch menu every day with a list of the Tuscan favorites she lovingly created in the kitchen.
After lunch, we grabbed a quick look at Brunelleschi’s Santa Spirito church, then headed off to see one of the best views of Florence from Piazza Michelangelo. After a 30-minute hike uphill, we arrived. The incredible view was worth it. The best way to see Florence is from outside of the city. That is the best way to capture Brunelleschi’s Duomo overshadowing the other terracotta roofs of the city. “The Duomo really makes the difference in the view, otherwise it would just be another city”, stated Shalu, my guest from London. Because Florence was a large Medieval city at the beginning of the Renaissance, when you are in the centre, it’s difficult to see anything, although the extended terracotta roofs provide great shade and protection from the rain.
Next, we headed down to Vivoli, one of the best and oldest gelaterias in Florence, now run by the fourth generation of the family. This place has always been on my itinerary of places to go, though now it is on everyone’s list. Two years ago, their Caffé Affogato (cup of gelato with a large caffe’ poured in the middle) which has been on their menu since the 1960s became a social media sensation, guaranteeing a long queue for the large espresso with gelato crema or pistachio. The line went fast, though, and we didn’t wait that long.
A block away, we passed by Santa Croce, the Franciscan Church where “everyone” is buried. It’s well worth a trip inside to see the tombs of Michaelangelo, Galileo and Machiavelli. Also, the Pazzi chapel by Brunelleschi and other artworks justify the ticket prices.
The market of San Lorenzo was next on the list. To avoid the crowded city centre, we were able to wrap around the Duomo and get a quick view of the Medici Palace which is, unfortunately, currently under renovation. San Lorenzo was stunning in the afternoon light, and the leather market still provides a unique visual shopping experience in the city famous for its leather shoes and bags.
The Medici Chapel attached to San Lorenzo is worth a visit. The main tombs display the level of wealth the family controlled while the tombs of Lorenzo the Magnificent and his brother Guiliano who represented the beginning of this family dynasty are historically significant.
Santa Maria Novella, the Dominican Church, was the last major cathedral in Florence (which happens to be next to the train station) made an excellent last stop on our tour. Right around the corner is one of my wife’s favorite shops, The Officina Profumo- Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella. It’s a high-end, one-of-a-kind perfumery and herbalist shop whose origins can be traced back to the Dominican Monastery of Santa Maria Novella, but whose retail operation began in 1612.
Visiting this store can be quite an experience. We were handed gelato from Cibreo, a famous Florentine restaurant, while waiting in line to enter the store! Inside, we found many of the shop’s historic relics and even an old sacristy of early Renaissance frescos by Mariotto di Nardo.
After one last wistful look at the Ponte Vecchio gleaming in the sunlight, we headed back just in time to make our train. On the way back to base at Rome, I realized that after so many years, seductive Florence had impressed me again.
After so many day trips, I may have found an itinerary worth sharing to help create a similar experience for others.
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