Under Russian shadow, Georgia welcomes gourmet American foodies, for now

 KUTAISI, GEORGIA- Landing just after midnight and preparing myself for a two-hour drive to the Black Sea, I asked myself, “Am I getting too old for this?” 

 After overreacting to my car rental agent’s Washington Wizards Basketball t-shirt, I had answered my own question. He preferred rugby and did not understand what the t-shirt meant. With Georgian classics on the radio and driving on poorly lit rainy roads, I had arrived in Batumi, Georgia's second city on the Black Sea, just after 3a.m..  After dropping by bag at the hotel, I was conveniently impressed when the front desk person directed me to a 24-hour restaurant for a quick bite. Traditional Georgian bread and chicken barbecue skewers was a great way to end the night.

 Waking up the next day, I was already impressed with the city. The streets were filled with local bakeries that would serve you on the sidewalk from a basement window and cafes serving impressive coffee. I walked directly to the city’s main waterfront park, Batumis Bulvari, to see the Black Sea. Redeveloped in early 2000, the stone beach-lined esplanade stretched along the waterfront for 7 kilometers. 

 After a sunny day of sights, I grabbed dinner at a local favorite, Adjika . I was met by the owner who introduced me to several regional dishes on their QR code menu in 3 languages - Georgian (represented by a Georgian flag), English (represented by an American flag) and Russian (represented by a Russian flag accompanied by the words, “Russia is a Terrorist State.” 

 When I mentioned to her I was living in Italy, she said, “Italians and Georgians are a lot alike”, referring to the focus on regional food, the importance of wine and the rugged interiors of both countries that create these distinctions. I decided on Imeretian Kharcho, a traditional local dish of beef cooked slowly with caramelized onions and walnuts, accompanied by a freshly made cucumber lemonade to drink. After the main course she brought me signature dessert at no cost. Homemade ice-cream made from matsoni (Caspian Sea yogurt) served in chocolate and caramel.

 A quick run along the beach bike path was a great way to start my last morning in Georgia’s second city. The architecture highlighted the difference between the newly constructed and modern Dubai-inspired casino hotel and the crumbing Soviet Black Sea architecture. The standout was an old crumbling waterpark surround by oviet apartment blocks. The once sought-after seafront apartments under communism are now a window into the decaying Soviet rule.

 After stopping by a basement bakery for a khachapuri cheese pastry for breakfast, I started my drive to Tbilisi. Dodging cows, pigs and a few drivers that may have been under the influence, I made my way to Gori, which was Stalin’s home town and made a good stopping point for lunch. I was just in time to join an English tour. 

 The site of his childhood home was turned into a park and museum and dedicated to Stalin sometime in the 1950s. Highlights include his heavily-armored rail carriage that he traveled in to the Yalta and Tehran conferences, his death mask and numerous articles of his memorabilia. Strangely enough, the power went out for the entire block when the tour entered the room of the death mask. It came back on 30 minutes later. Ignore the giftshop - the street vendors outside sell the same merchandise at a fraction of the price.

 After an hour dealing with Tbilisi Friday traffic, which could be because of the country allowing cars to have steering wheels on both the left and the right, I arrived at the British House, a beautiful retreat in the Rustavelli area. The neighborhood was filled with so many mature trees it seemed as if the buildings grew there. After a quick walking tour of the city including a cable car ride to see Mother Georgia, a 20 meter aluminum statue of Kartvlis Deda overlooking the city, I ended up back in the neighborhood for a sunset dinner with a view. 

 I dined at Keto and Kote, a lovely restaurant which served a modern version of Georgian classics. My favorites were the slow-cooked beef mixed with gorgonzola cheese and topped with jalapenos, and the strawberry, sour cream and chocolate pie. Filled with locals and a few visitors, the tranquil setting made a perfect end to my first day in the capital.

 I learned a lot about the city the next day on the city’s free walking tour, including the history of the Old Town before and after the Soviet Union. The guide also introduced us to the story of Niko Prirosmanashvili, Georgia’s most famous artist. Like many artists, he found fame after his death, I was able to view his works at the National Gallery including his black and white giraffe. 

 The tour also brought us by the sulfur bath houses in the Old Center. Natural hot springs provided a spot for numerous bath houses to open, where you can still join a public bath for a very reasonable price or opt for a luxury experience. For about 35-40 euros, you can rent your own bathroom with a waiting area and a lot of other amenities. Highly recommended after a few days of hill climbing around the city.

 With a three-hour drive to my flight out of Kutaisi, I decided to head out early the next day and beat the traffic. With a few hours to spare before my flight, I wanted to check out an abandoned Soviet Spa town, Tskaltubo, that I had heard about. During Communist rule, the town was celebrated as an oasis which served as a reward destination for Soviet workers. Known for its radon carbonate mineral springs, there are still a few active medical spa treatment facilities.

 The real draw today is with the urban explorers for the abandoned sanatoriums and pensions built by the Soviets during the 1950s. Now, the sanatoriums are abandoned and ghostly. Some are run by former residents and charge you 1-2 euros to have a look around. These former mansions include the largest hanging chandelier in an abandoned place, with detailed architectural features, and the ability to see nature taking back these properties.

 The abandoned town created a wonderful and exciting end to my travels through Georgia. I would highly recommend adding this country to your itinerary. I had always had high expectations for this place after eating in numerous Georgian restaurants that are usually found in former Soviet countries. My expectations were met and I will return to do some more exploring and enjoy the fantastic food.

mlp