Calabrian wines ought to be the latest obsession in Italy’s vinificio scene

 CIRÒ – When travelling in Italy there is, of course, an abundance of regions and vineyards to visit and more often than not aesthetic photos of Tuscan wine tastings are foisted upon us, plastered all over our Facebook and Instagram feeds, but for a true gastronomic experience one absolutely must visit Calabria. 

 This weekend Cirò, an ancient region of Calabria which is gently lapped by the clear waters of the Ionian Sea, became the host of this year’s Merano Wine Festival. The event saw a joint collaboration between the municipalities of Cirò and Cirò Marina, with the quaint little town of Cirò, hosting the first night. The medieval borgo was lit up with string lights and wine vendors coming from across Calabria. The second and third nights were hosted at Cirò Marina in the sophisticated Borgo Saverona, which was full of stalls from all of Calabria’s best winemakers, along with master classes, expert talks, master-chefs and a rather fetching dance floor for when people had sampled enough wines. 

 The thing that makes Calabrian wines so distinctive is a combination of the geography of the region, which is flanked by both the Mediterranean and Ionian seas, the distinctive grape varieties and the specific culture and traditions of the Calabrian people. 

 The Magliocco and Gaglioppo, grape varieties are among those native to the area and used since ancient times these produce strong and full-bodied wines, which age well, and even cope in particularly dry seasons. There are twelve common varieties of grape throughout Calabria, including those brought over by the ancient Greeks, the kind that would produce wine potent enough for Odysseus to knock-out the 30 ft cyclops, Polyphemus, as noted in the Odyssey. With more modern techniques, however, these same grapes are capable of producing both rich and full-bodied wines, as well as some incredibly light and delicate sparkling ones. 

 One particular vineyard that stood out amongst the rest was Librandi in Cirò, a third-generation, family-run business with a simultaneously traditional and experimental approach to wine-making. As Paolo Librandi recalled, his grandfather, Raffaele was a type of proto-professor in the science of grafting and wine-making, a true craftsman and expert, who often shared his expertise with other people. He was someone who believed in innovation and that is what lead his son and his family to collaborate with scientist Dr. Anna Schneider on the spiral vineyard, which sits in the centre of the complex and allows for those at Librandi to not only produce wines of entirely superior quality but also contribute greatly to the field of wine and biological sciences. 

 The winery is situated in a beautiful location, that offers not just excellent wines but also a perfectly-paired aperitivo, as no detail is left out. Calabria is a region that offers not only the usual and delectable southern Italian cuisine but also the kick of hot peppers, fresh seafood and sweet onion. The contrast of hot, spicy, Sardella on a crostino with a crisp glass of local wine is something entirely singular. 

 If one’s object is to truly experience Italy’s food and wine culture, then one must travel regionally and Calabria should certainly not be left off the list. Each bottle is representative of thousands of years of tradition and while the Calabrians may no longer crush grapes underfoot or submit to the two-glass minimum over lunch or dinner, their ability to create excellent wine has held strong. 

White wines: 

Cirò Bianco DOC – Romano e Adamo (10.50 €) Made with 100 percent Greco Bianco this wine is soft and lightly floral, very fresh and comes highly recommend by me (if one is inclined to take suggestions from a Brit). It is best served with fresh seafood, nothing too fatty or heavy but this is also a wine that can be enjoyed entirely by itself. 

Balbino IGT Calabria – Farneto del Principe (16 €) This organic wine produced with 100 percent Montonico grapes, has a fresh and slightly sweet flavour. It is certainly richer than the Cirò Bianco and has slightly yoghurt taste. It is best paired with fish and soft cheeses.  

Rosé wines: 

Greco Nero IGT Calabria  – Statti (11.90 €) Made with 100 percent Greco Nero, this wine can only be describe as the most rosé of rosé wines. It is an excellent balance between freshness and softness, and richness a real delight. It would be best enjoyed by itself or with fresh seafood, summer salads, an authentic margherita pizza. 

Rosaspina Greco Nero Calabria IGP – Spadafora (14.85€) 100 percent Greco Nero, this wine is fresh and delicious with a very delicate taste. For those who are not a fan of the rich slightly yoghurt-ish flavour that rosé wines tend to have, this would be the perfect rosé for you. The colour is a very delicate pink which matches its flavour profile. It would best be enjoyed with something fresh or perhaps even something with Calabrian chilly peppers.  

Red wines: 

Zero Rosso IGT Calabria – Brigante (23 €) This 100 percent Gaglioppo wine produced in Cirò is not only unfiltered (vegan) and without sulphates, it is truly sensational. This may be a divisive recommendation for some but for those who do not enjoy a dry red that claws at the top of the mouth this is the most un-dry red that I have ever tasted. This is not to say that it is sweet and syrupy, it absolutely isn’t. It is both fruity, floral and well-bodied with a fresh taste. It would be best enjoyed with less fatty cuts of meat, red soups and sauces and fresh cheese. 

Fervore – Terre di Balbia (25€) 100 percent Magliocco dolce, as the name would suggest this wine is absolutely pazzesco, as the Italians say. There are many nuances in the flavour. It is complex and full-bodied yet soft, clean and light. Delectable and best enjoyed with the usual suspects for red wine. 

Sparking:

Rosaneti Brut Rosé – Librandi (16€) Librandi knows how to produce a good wine but this one was particularly good, so good in fact even some sommeliers were spotted drinking it as opposed to merely sampling it, as is the respected convention at wine tastings. This 100 percent Gaglioppo sparkling rosé is incredibly fresh, a good structure with a clean lightly fruity flavour. It is best enjoyed with an aperitivo, fish, pizza or even something rich, as this is a clean, fresh wine that absolutely must be tried. 

  Thus, a trip to Calabria is imperative, not just for the gorgeous beaches and spiced culinary offerings but for the vineyards and the wines. US Catanzaro may not have surpassed Seria B but Calabria’s wines would certainly be in Seria A.

*prices may vary based on vendor

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