Menswear faces a deeper crisis than fashion at large

 ROME -- The fashion industry has been in steady decline since 2022, the year that marked a significant slowdown in post-pandemic revenues. Recent data paints an even bleaker picture: in April 2025, clothing and accessory sales in Italy dropped by 9.3 per cent, according to the Confimprese-Jakala Observatory. Consumers are becoming more cautious, prioritising leisure and entertainment over the purchase of durable goods.
This trend reflects a broader global slowdown. Luxury powerhouses LVMH and Kering reported first-quarter revenue declines of 2 per cent and 14 per cent, respectively. In Italy, the downturn has been particularly severe: hundreds of fashion companies have closed in key manufacturing regions, pressured by reduced global demand and major cutbacks in luxury production.
Despite these challenges, the industry is actively seeking solutions. In Milan, the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana and Zalando brought together leading fashion figures to explore the sector’s future. Claudia d’Arpizio, Global Head of Fashion & Luxury at Bain & Company, noted that consumer confidence has reached historic lows, further exacerbated by political uncertainty in the United States.
Carlo Capasa, president of the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, emphasised during a Fashion Talk hosted by Style Magazine that the fashion world must refocus on creativity. "Marketing must once again serve creativity, not dominate it," he said. Many industry observers argue that fashion’s current challenges are rooted less in economics and more in a creative decline. As brands evolved into corporate entities, their original identity as creators of dreams and innovation has faded.
 

 Menswear’s Creative Crisis
 Among the sectors within fashion, menswear appears to be in the most precarious state—less from a financial standpoint and more from a creative one. Economically, it remains relatively stable: in 2024, Italian menswear exports rose by 0.6 per cent, while imports dropped by roughly 7 per cent. The trade surplus increased to more than €3.6 billion, up from €3.2 billion the previous year.
Creatively, however, the picture is far less optimistic. While recent years have seen a welcome blurring of gender lines and new interpretations of masculinity, menswear is now dominated by a return to traditional tailoring. The resurgence of formal jackets and trousers has stifled innovation, with many brands opting for safe, repetitive designs in an effort to secure sales. The result is a growing sameness across collections and a notable decline in experimental fashion.
With the upcoming menswear season—Pitti Uomo from 17 to 20 June and Milan Fashion Week from 20 to 24 June—the industry faces a critical moment. Will it find the courage to break out of this creative impasse, or will it remain trapped in a cycle of commercial conservatism?