Travel: Spending 48 hours in Bratislava

View of Bratislava from old town hall. Photo credit: Mike LaPointe

 BRATISLAVA, Slovakia -- This walkable city welcomes visitors with easy access to the Danube River which is connected to its historic center. When you stay a night or two, you can experience the city without the many day trippers from the river cruises towards which the Old Town is geared. The Bratislava Castle on the top of the hill dominates the city skyline and dates to the 13th century. After being neglected in the 19th Century, the castle was restored after the Second World War and now houses a large museum which is open to the public.

 The hike to the castle rewards you with the Slovak National Museum along with views of Austria and even Hungary on clear days.

 Another city icon that stands out is the Catholic church, Saint Martin’s Cathedral. The 14th Century Gothic cathedral is famous for the 19 royal coronations that took place for the kingdom of Hungary between 1563 and 1830. On top of its spire there is a large gold-plated 150kg crown which is a replica of Saint Stephen’s crown.

 Most people love or hate the Most Slovenskeho Narodneho Postania, commonly known as the UFO bridge. Abbreviated as Most SNP, it resembles a 1960s attraction. It is the longest suspension bridge in the world with one pylon and one cable-plane which is connected to a restaurant and viewing deck shaped as a flying saucer.

 Sadly, the construction during the Communist period destroyed the Jewish neighborhood which did not recover. At the time, the bridge was a symbol to show its neighbor in the West, Vienna, the advances in construction by the Soviet Union and their superiority in the space race.

 At the top of the old town is St. Michael’s Gate, the only city gate that has been preserved since the city’s medieval period. Today, the six-story tower offers great views of the city and hosts a small museum about the history of the building.

 The gate was also part of a coronation path that the 19 Hungarian kings would take after receiving their crown at Saint Martin’s Cathedral. This path throughout the city is marked by small crowns in the paving stones.

 Outside of the city center there is the so-called “old communist restaurant,” Viecha U Sedliaka, which is usually filled with locals. A typical lunch starts with garlic soup, served in a bowl of bread followed by the potato dumplings in sheep’s cheese with bacon. Another local favorite, best found in bakeries, is the poppy seed or walnut-filled biegels, a filled pastry best enjoyed with coffee or tea.

 Outside of the Old Town, the riverfront offers plenty of walking paths and parks that are well-suited for jogging or biking.

 A visit in December would include the city’s traditional Christmas markets. The Main Square market next to City Hall is crowded with traditional Slovakian food stalls that includes dumplings, gigantic sausages, and potato pancakes, along with other stalls selling handmade Slovakian gifts. The Hviezdoslavovo Square Market is spread out and offers an ice-skating rink in some winters. Both markets offer several flavors of mulled wine, creating a social atmosphere among locals and visitors.

 Even though flights from Rome can be as low as 40 Euros, it may be more practical to include Vienna, Prague or Budapest in your itinerary to grasp a larger understanding of the region and culture.

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Bratislava Castle from the old town. Phooto credit: Mike LaPointe
The grand staircase, Bratislava Castle

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